A 3-month Reunion

Several years after returning to the Bay Area from my year in Brazil, I had a chance to go back for 3 months. This time, I had a list of friends and places to revisit, new destinations and a 2-month Brazil Airpass from Varig Airlines. The Airpass was a lot like a Eurailpass in that I could take any flight on Varig Airlines for 60 days, anywhere they flew in Brazil, which was everywhere. Brazil is huge, only slightly smaller than the continental US, but I logged scores of hours traveling all over. I finally saw the Iguazu Falls (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L8845utZI4) and more of the south and interior of the country. I flew into the Amazon via Manaus and collected frogs in the jungle with a scientist and his wife who knew my buddy Joao. That trip was also my first real introduction to capoeira (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBk3Xd7GCWk), an Afro-Brazilian dance form that incorporates self-defense maneuvers. Capoeira is performed to the music of the berimbau (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0xDmlQnca0). The three months flew by and were not enough. Can’t wait to go back again !

Other Musical Journeys

No extended trip to Brazil is complete without making multiple side trips across the country. I was fortunate to meet tons of adventurous travelers being home-based at my Rio hotel. They gave me lots of tips. Side trips by bus and plane were taken to Sao Paolo, Brasilia, Manaus, Belem, Recife, Fortaleza, Porto Alegre and Curitiba. I often had my guitar with me and music opened a lot of doors and hearts with Brazilians along the way. My most memorable journey was to Jericoacoara, at that time a remote, deserted fishing village just south of the Equator in the northeast of Brazil (toggle thru slide show button on upper right at this link: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/3628788). It was one of the most spectacular beaches I had ever seen. There were no roads, bus service, running water or electricity at that time. The only access was by 4-wheel drive, walking or taking a burro for 12 kilometers from the nearest town across dunes and lagoons. I rented a burro and made the crossing at night packed down with food, jugs of wine, my hammock, mosquito net and guitar. I arrived at the sleepy village of 200 people around 3:00am and was greeted by the “mayor,” who was still drinking at a bar with his fishing buddies, accompanied by a dozen pigs sleeping on the floor. I played music and sang with them until sunrise and had a blast as the only gringo there for an entire week.

Brazilian Music Sampler

In my “Love at First Listen” post, I described my infatuation with bossa nova and popular Brazilian music (MPB), especially during the era of 1960 – 1985. For the curious, here is a partial list of my favorite artists to check out and some random samplings of their music. Some are still alive and out there performing.

Antonio Carlos Jobim http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YvCdnmNJNs

Joao Gilberto http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzxVBXCP1jg

Djavan & Chico Buarque http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WegO6GPI05Q

Elis Regina http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHEQ-m4KSaQ

Maria Rita (daughter of Elis) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDPLB4dL3zI

Toquinho http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEl-wAN95N0

Vinicius de Moraes (lyricist) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VCNIWmxaps

Maria Creuza http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0O3RDQ8RoI

Joyce http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC8TO8Vg7D4

Gal Costa and Oscar Castro-Neves (at SF Jazz, Oct 25), Rosa Passos, Paula Morelenbaum, Milton Nascimento (at SF Jazz, Nov 7), Simone, Nara Leao, Tania Maria, Carlos Lyra, Luis Bonfa, Paulinho da Viola, Alcione, and Joao Bosco.

They are all truly amazing. Enjoy !

Street Carnival in Bahia

On a return visit to Brazil for several months that I will describe later, I traveled north to experience the famous street Carnival of Bahia (Salvador), the original capital of Brazil. Rather than a massive and flashy spectacle like in Rio, Carnival in Bahia is a street affair, up close and personal with the people. Over 200 Carnival groups parade and frolic in the streets for a week and you feel like you've found the center of the party universe! The Guinness Book of World Records logs this as the largest party in the world. You get to wear your own costume (or not) and dance and interact with people from all over Brazil and the world. My favorite things were the trio electricos, big sound trucks moving through town with live bands and dancers on board (A sample: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt5h_g1MRu8). Need I say more?

The Spectacle of Rio Carnival

After about six months living in Rio and hearing the constant drumbeat of a samba school practicing late at night in my hotel neighborhood, Carnival finally arrived. Festivities in Rio last for days and include street parties, Carnival Balls, parades, special events and street bands. The Sambodromo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCpsyoqUP1A) is the main venue – a noisy and splashy display and competition of the samba schools where hundreds of Brazilian merrymakers - clothing optional – walk, dance, sing, play music and strut like peacocks representing each samba school. Carnival Sunday and Monday are the best part, but the Champion’s Parade on Saturday is also worth a look. Besides all the flesh and flash and infectious rhythm, the most lasting image for me was of the huge, 50-foot tanks of “Brahma” beer with large hoses on the sides and adjacent to the venue. Although merely storage tanks, it looked like the beer was getting pumped directly into the Sambodromo filled with wild crowds performing and watching. Definitely an experience to remember!

Samba Schools, Oh My !

One of the many pleasures/pains of living in Rio de Janeiro is living down the street from a samba school. Samba schools are associations or social clubs that represent a particular neighborhood. They can provide entertainment through popular dance nights and they also prepare for the annual competition in the samba parade associated with Carnaval. In Rio, these clubs are enormous (hundreds of members), have loyal and passionate followers and generate lots of joyful noise into the wee hours before daybreak. There was a samba school down the street from my hotel, Fortunately, I’m a heavy sleeper! When I did venture out, all you needed was a smile to be accepted into the fun.

Nights in Canecao

   Probably the most famous live music venue in Rio de Janeiro is the Canecao (kahn – eh – COW).  This club opened in 1967 and is where famous Brazilian artists launch new music and is a destination for international bands.  It’s the first major venue I visited after seeing smaller bands play samba and bossa in bars and lounges.  I went to see one of my favorite Brazilian singer/songwriters, 

Djavan (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5GxBcZ6Jp8&feature=related).  The show was amazing and what struck me most was the complete musicality of the audience!  Djavan, as many other Brazilian performers, would stop singing in the middle of a song and let the audience carry the tune.  And the audience would all know the lyrics and sing on key!  Here’s an example starting at 1:40 into this clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJtdQm5H4yY.  I would go back to Canecao many times over the next year.